# Beijing Independent Bookshops & Creative Districts

> A Yuan-dynasty pagoda courtyard, a church bookshop, a glass box facing the Zhengyangmen tower, plus 798, Wudaoying, Liulichang and the rules nobody tells you.

_Category: attraction · Reading time: 6 min read_

Beijing's bookshops are the best bad-weather plan in the city, and several of them are genuine landmarks rather than retail space: a Yuan-dynasty brick pagoda courtyard that sells only books about Beijing, a 1907 Anglican church with bookshelves under the stained glass, a three-storey glass box facing the Zhengyangmen archery tower. Most are free to enter, none require a purchase, and the best hours are weekday mornings. This guide picks the ones with the clearest transport and the strongest reason to go.

## The ones worth a detour

Each of these has a reason to exist beyond selling books.

- **Zhengyang Bookstore** — In the courtyard of the Wan Song Old Man Pagoda, a Yuan-dynasty brick tower on Xisi South Street. It sells only books about Beijing. Free, no booking, 09:00 to 18:00, closed Mondays. Metro line 4, Xisi station, exit D, five minutes.
- **Mofan Bookstore · Poetry Space** — A former Anglican church on Tonglin'ge Road, with bookshelves under the original stained glass. 10:30 to 20:30. Metro line 2, Changchunjie station, about ten minutes on foot.
- **PageOne, Qianmen** — Three floors in Beijing Fun, with floor-to-ceiling windows on the upper levels looking straight at the Zhengyangmen archery tower — the best night view from any bookshop in the city. 10:00 to 22:00. Metro lines 2 and 8, Qianmen station, exits C or I, three to five minutes.
- **Wansheng Bookstore** — The academic institution of Beijing bookshops, near the south gate of Tsinghua in Chengfu Road, with the Thinker cafe inside. 10:00 to 22:00. Metro line 4, Peking University East Gate station, five minutes.
- **Sanlian Taofen Bookstore** — The humanist landmark on Meishuguan East Street, open around the clock in part. This is the one people came to at 2am for twenty years. Metro line 5 or 6, Dongsi or Zhangzizhong Lu, then walk.
- **The Bookworm** — Beijing's most active English-language bookshop, library and restaurant in Sanlitun, with a lending library and a full events calendar. If you want a book you can actually read, start here.

## Chains and design-led spaces

Good air conditioning, reliable hours, easy to combine with shopping.

- **Tsutaya, Chaowai THE BOX** — Three floors of Japanese-designed space, 10:00 to 22:30. Metro line 6, Dongdaqiao station, exit A, three minutes.
- **Zhongshuge, Rongke** — The mirrored, staircase-and-dome spectacle that photographs extremely well. 10:00 to 21:00. Metro line 4 Zhongguancun exit B, or line 10 Zhichunli exit A, about ten minutes.
- **Kubrick, MOMA** — A film-bookshop-cafe inside the MOMA complex in Dongzhimen, strong on cinema and design. Pair it with the art-house cinema next door.
- **One Way Space** — Xu Zhiyuan's literary institution, with a serious salon programme. The Dongfeng Art District branch runs 10:00 to 21:00; metro line 14, Dongfeng Beiqiao, then a short ride.
- **China Bookstore, Liulichang** — The old-book and antiquarian specialist on Liulichang East Street — thread-bound books, rubbings, old calligraphy. Combine it with the hutong walk next door.

## Secondhand and cheap

Where your money goes furthest.

- **Duozhuayu** — The circular secondhand shop — books bought, cleaned and resold. Cheap, well curated, and the stock changes weekly.
- **China Bookstore branches** — The state old-book chain, with branches at Liulichang, Xinjiekou, Dengshikou and Qianmen. Prices are negotiable in the older rooms.
- **Shipping it home** — Books are print matter, which most destinations accept, but check the weight and the prohibited-goods list before you post a box — see the postal and shipping guide.

## Creative districts

Where to go when you want the area rather than the book.

- **798 Art District** — The decommissioned electronics factory complex in Jiuxianqiao that became China's best-known contemporary art district — galleries, the Ullens Centre, and a lot of concrete. Metro line 14 to Wangjing Nan or Gaojiayuan, then a short ride or bus.
- **Wudaoying and Guozijian** — A hutong strip of small shops, cafes and studios between the Lama Temple and the Confucius Temple. Metro lines 2 and 5, Yonghegong station. Go on a weekday morning; weekends are shoulder to shoulder.
- **Yangmeizhu Slanting Street and Liulichang** — The old publishing and printing quarter south of Dashilan, now a walkable strip of bookshops, print studios and courtyards. Metro line 2, Qianmen or Hepingmen.
- **Longfusi** — A rebuilt temple-market block near Dongsi with galleries, a rooftop and a design bookshop. Metro lines 5 and 6, Dongsi station.
- **Langyuan Vintage** — Old factory buildings by the Tonghui river in Chaoyang, now studios, cafes and a cinema. Metro line 1, Sihui station, then walk.

## How to behave in a Chinese bookshop

Small courtesies that are actually noticed.

- **Reading is free** — Nobody will ask you to buy anything for sitting and reading. Sealed copies are the exception — those are for purchase.
- **Photography** — Fine in the public areas, but kill the flash and the shutter sound, and never photograph people reading. A few shops ban tripods outright.
- **The cafe** — Buying a drink is the polite way to occupy a seat for an hour. Prices are roughly RMB 30 to 50.
- **Language** — English stock is concentrated in PageOne, Tsutaya and The Bookworm. Independent shops are Chinese-language, which is fine for browsing art and photography.
- **Events** — Salons and author talks are usually announced on WeChat a week ahead and are almost always in Chinese, but the audience is welcoming.

## Best hours and how to combine

Sequencing saves you a wasted afternoon.

- **Weekday mornings** — Before 11:00 the independent shops are nearly empty. This is when they are worth the trip.
- **Rain and extreme heat** — This is the emergency itinerary. Bookshops are the single best answer to a 38-degree afternoon or an orange rain alert.
- **One clean loop** — Morning: Yangmeizhu Slanting Street and Liulichang. Afternoon: PageOne at Qianmen for the archery-tower view. Evening: Sanlian Taofen if you want the 24-hour room.
- **Another clean loop** — Yonghegong first, then Wudaoying, then Guozijian — all walkable from one metro station, and it works even in light rain.
- **798 is a half day** — Do not try to add it to a central-Beijing morning. It is out in the north-east and deserves three or four hours.

## Bookshop checklist

- **Free to enter** — No ticket, no booking, no purchase required. Most are free.
- **Best time** — Weekday mornings. Weekend afternoons are crowded.
- **English stock** — PageOne, Tsutaya, The Bookworm. Everywhere else is Chinese-language.
- **Photo rule** — No flash, no shutter sound, no photos of readers.
- **Rainy-day default** — Liulichang to PageOne to Sanlian Taofen, all indoors and all walkable.
- **Buying a drink** — RMB 30 to 50 buys you an hour of seat. Do it.

## Where to stay

**KOULING Ruiyue Hotel** — 5m from Guogongzhuang Metro Station · 9.6/10 · US$26  
View hotel: https://12001.net/hotels/ruiyue/

KOULING Ruiyue is five metres from the underground entrance of Guo Gong Zhuang station on lines 9 and Fangshan, rated 9.6/10, from US$26. For the Liulichang and Qianmen loop, take line 9 and change once — and the free laundry matters more than you think if you are carrying books home.

## Where to stay

**KOULING Hotel Beijing Donggaodi** — 7 min walk to Wufutang Metro Station (Line 8) · 9.4/10 · US$19  
View hotel: https://12001.net/hotels/donggaodi/

KOULING Donggaodi is a seven-minute walk from Wufutang station on line 8, two kilometres from the China Space Museum. Yonghegong — the start of the Wudaoying and Guozijian loop — is a direct ride with no changes, which makes the northern bookshop day the easiest one to run from here.

---

Source: https://12001.net/guides/beijing-bookstores/  
© KOULING Hotels
